- Increased Cabin Vibration

 - Increased Cabin Noise

Easily the most frustrating result of solid motor mounts is increased vibration felt by passengers in the vehicle. Stock motor mounts are designed with a fair amount of flex, designed to absorb natural motor vibration and reduce vibration noise. In most cases this increase in noise and vibration is not terribly significant - however it it increased by the the firmness of the urethane used to fill the mount - and the number of mounts that are filled.

There are a number of ways to make the trade off between vibration / noise increase and vehicle performance.

Firming Up the Right Motor Mounts

Most FWD vehicles have several different motor mounts - typically from 4-5 mounts. Some of the motor mounts are designed significantly different from the others. TORQUE mounts are the motor mounts designed to reduce the amount of engine movement when power is applied. Main Mounts are the mounts designed to support and hold the weight of the engine.

TORQUE mounts are the most effective mounts at providing a great rigidity to the engine assembly without transmitting as much natural vibration to the driver. Torque mounts are typically located at the front and or rear of the engine. Main mounts are typically located higher on the engine assembly as the engine weight usually hangs from these.

While it is typically possible to firm up all the mounts on a vehicle - the torque mounts will provide the best trade off of performance and vibration.

There are a number of firmness or "durometer" levels offered. These are:

60A - For the Daily Driver - This is the softest formula offered that will still make a noticeable difference in vehicle performance. This softer formula is best for tuners that still want to increase performance without trading off as much personal comfort.

80A - Even trade off between performance and vibration when it comes to motor mount inserts. This formula is the most popular for it's ability to significantly increase vehicle performance while still allowing some small amount of flex in the mounts to keep vibration and noise to reasonable levels

94A - Race Quality - Not for the daily driver. This formula is the hardest of the 3 available. Providing the best reduction in motor movement - this version will also allow a rather significant amount of engine vibration to be transmitted into the vehicle.

All items listed at the right are absolutely required in order to complete this project safely and easily. In total they will cost you less than $10 at your local Home-Depot or Wal-Mart. (aside from the Urethane) Save yourself future frustration and buy these before starting the project!

Contact Cement - Helps the duct tape seal against greasy surfaces

With this information in mind you're ready to actually create your own motor mount inserts. Once you have considered the trade offs and chosen the mounts to work on and the formula to use you're ready to go.

These instructions assume you have read the above information and selected the mounts you need to work on and the formula you've decided to go with.

It's absolutely necessary to remove the motor mount you're going to be working on in order to do this properly. Most users will be working on the torque mounts which do not support as much engine weight - so little work is necessary in doing removing the mount. If you're going to be doing all of your mounts or the main mounts you'll obviously need to make the preparations to do so.

The mounts you're working with MUST have voids in them like the mounts shown at the right. These voids are what you will be filling with urethane.

Stock "Torque Mounts" - you can easily see how these will allow of a lot of engine movement.

Step One - Clean Them!

For the Urethane to bond correctly and to ease the overall process - the mounts must be thoroughly cleaned of grease and dirt. A little cheap degreaser can go a long way more than simple soap. Take the time to use to real degreaser - it's usually just a spray on - spray off process anyway.

The motor mount inserts are made by pouring a liquid urethane into the voids of the mounts and allowing it to dry. In order to do this you'll need to completely seal off one side of the mounts. When you first pour the urethane into the mounts it will have a VERY liquid consistency. Even the smallest hole in your sealing job will allow the urethane to seep out.

The best way to do this is with some contact cement and duct tape. While duct tape alone will usually work - the contact cement will ensure a good seal - especially if there's any greasy residue on the mounts (the tape will not adhere properly)

Start by painting the outside edge and inside circumference of the side of the mount you're going to seal off - with contact cement. Anywhere you need to be sure there's a good seal - use this liberally - you'll be able to pull / scrape it off later.

Once you've set a good layer of contact cement seal off the mount with the duct tape.

Use several strips of tape at different angles from the center of the mount.

Continue adding tape around the center of the mount until you've sealed it off completely. Some users wont have the center piece sticking out of one side and wont have to work around it - either way just keep adding tape until it's properly sealed off.

Start by painting the outside edge and inside circumference with contact cement.

Add Duct tape over the cement until the side of the mount is completely sealed off.

It's important that the mounts are completely level before you pour the urethane into them. If they're laying at an angle the mount will not turn out right.

Prepare a small box of sand for the mounts. Setting the mounts into the sand will:

 - Allow a perfectly level placement - even if there are protrusions from the mounts that would other wise make it sit screwy

 - Help seal off any small holes in your sealing job. If the hole is small a little urethane will leak out into the sand and the sand will help it congeal faster - effectively sealing the hole in the mount.

DO NOT attempt to do this without the sand box. While it is possible to do so - using the sand box will help ensure you do the job right the first time. Once you mix the urethane you'll only have 15-20 minutes of working time before it's too firm to properly work with. You will not have enough time to decide you SHOULD have used the sand box.

DO NOT DO THIS UNTIL YOU'RE 100% Ready to Pour!

The correct mixing ratio is absolutely VITAL to the urethane setting correctly. That's why each set comes in a pre-measured container. Do not attempt to use only PART of a kit - doing so may cause the urethane to not set correctly.

Each kit should include:

 - Urethane - in the hardness level you ordered it in. Comes in a small paint can style container.

 - Activator - A very liquid substance in a small bottle.

 - Stirring Stick

Before doing ANYTHING with these substances read through all the warnings and adhere to them! most importantly - mix and use these outside in a well ventilated area.

Remove the lid from the larger paint can type container containing the urethane and set it aside. Take the bottle of activator and shake it it well before adding it to the urethane.

Thoroughly mix the activator and urethane with the provided mixing stick. Be sure to scrape the sides of the can and even scrape off the stirring stick to ensure you've mixed all of the urethane in with the activator.

Once you've mixed the urethane and activator you're ready to pour it into the mount!

Once the urethane is mixed you only have about 15-20 minutes where it's pour able.

Slowly pour the mixed urethane into the open side of the mounts. Allow for the urethane to fill all the voids in the mount. It may take a minute for it to settle completely flat - so take your time. If it seems to be leaking out a LITTLE - don't panic - the sand will help clot up the hole and slow the leak.

Once the mounts are full  wait about 10 minutes. In 10 minutes the urethane should still be very liquid and you can top off the mounts with the remaining urethane in the can. This is particularly important if you have a small leak in the sealed side of the mount. Dont wait longer than 20 minutes to check up on the mounts as by that time the urethane will start to become less workable.

The mounts should be completely dried out and fully usable within 2 days - however most users report that by the next morning after mixing - the mounts are ready to go and at least be mounted in the vehicle.

Fill the mounts to the top - it's even OK if some spills over the outside edge.

Sometimes if you had a small leak you'll find small clumps of sand attached to the other side - these pry / peel off easily and will not affect your new mounts.

The tape should pull off easily and if you want to clean them up further you can scrape off the left over contact cement - however if you really don't care too much - you could even leave the tape on there - it's not going to hurt anything.

Small clumps of sand on the outside are due to a small leak in the seal.

These pull off easily.

Finished "Do it Yourself" Motor Mounts

Some users have asked if this will work for their mounts if the center portion has complete torn away from the rest of the mount. The answer is yes! The only additional consideration is the correct centering / alignment of the mounting point that goes through the mount. While the sandbox will make it significantly easier to do this - special care will be needed to ensure centering and alignment.

In using these instructions and urethane kits you accept complete responsibility for the outcome of your project. Only you can ensure this is done correctly and we will not be held responsible if your mounts do not turn out like you wanted.

A significant amount of information has been provided here - however some projects may be unique and will need special attention or a different mode f creation. While we're happy to help with any questions - we cannot guarantee the outcome of your particular project.

You may not copy or post or reproduce this "How To" information or pictures without written consent from us.

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