Honda Civic - (Except 99-00 Si)

1992 -- 2000

Honda del Sol - all models

1992 -- 1997

• 1 - 1057 - Front Passenger Side Lower Mount - Inner Insert
• 1 - 1058 - Front Passenger Side Lower Mount - Outside Insert
• 1 - 1059 - Front Driver Side Lower Mount - Outside Insert
• 1 - 1060 - Front Driver Side Lower Mount - Outside Insert
• 1 - 1061 - Rear Mount - Passenger Side Insert
• 1 - 1062 - Rear Mount - Driver Side Insert
• 4 - Zip Ties - For 1057, 1058, 1059, 1060
• 4 - Zip Tie Ends
• 1 - Installation Instructions # 17317

Disclaimer: This write up was selflessly provided by an avid del Sol owner. The instructions here are provided mearly as a general guide. Neither dSt nor the Manufacturer Energy Suspension is responsible for this content.

My first how-to, so bear with me. This morning I replaced my lower torque mounts. I had purchased Energy Suspsension's torque mount inserts and since you have to take them all off, I also bought brand new torque mounts and hardware. Took a lot of pics, so hope it helps. Bear in mind this is for a '95 Del Sol VTEC, so if you don't have a B16A then the transmission bracket will be different with two screws and not three like mine. The mounts themselves and the inserts are the same.

First off, you need to remove the lower splash guard (a couple plastic screw clips on each side plus three metal screws under the bumper. They're easy to see and get to so I left that out. Same with the fender well plastic - I'd recommend removing the screw clips in front under the bumper and a couple on the fender well liner itself just so there's enough slack to move it out of your way. Also easy to see and do so I left those out. Also recommend you remove both wheels for more room.

The Honda manual says to replace all the screws and bolts involved with your torque mounts so I did so, and I'd recommend you do as well after seeing the shape of the mount bolts that attach to the engine brackets. Plus it's all coming off anyway so you might as well - they're not that expensive.

The directions that comes with the Energy Suspension inserts will tell you which ones go to which mounts and which side they go on. It comes with nylon zip ties which will crack and break eventually. I used a screw and some washers to make sure they stay put indefinately. I used stainless steel since it'll resist the weather and crap that'll be all over it during driving. Since I couldn't find a metric screw that worked, the screws I used in both mounts were imperial/standard size 10-32 and were 2.5" long. Perfect fit with enough room for some nuts and washers. Here's the driver's side new hardware with the inserts already installed.

I started with the driver's side mount. The Honda manual when installing the engine instructs you to torque the transmission side mount before the driver's side, so I removed them in reverse so there was a bit more slack to work with before I installed the transmission mount and then torqued the tranny side first before torquing the driver's side. Shouldn't really matter either way, just leave the stuff a little loose on each side before you're ready to torque them to spec.

Each torque mount has two bolts holding it to the frame and one nut holding it to the bolt that's attached to either the A/C bracket (driver's side) or transmission bracket (passenger side). Starting with the driver's side here's a good shot of the prep:

As you can see, I used the A/C bracket as a place to jack the engine up just slightly to take the stress off the torque mount when installing/reinstalling. Remove the nut attaching it to the A/C bracket bolt, then remove the two bolts holding it to the frame. The driver's side mount has thinner rubber than the passenger side so with some work (and will probably make the current mount useless) you can yank it out. Then unscrew the long A/C bracket bolt that the mount was sitting on. To reinstall, install the new long A/C bracket bolt (torque to 61 lb/ft). I recommend you put the polyurethane insert over the long bolt before attempting to put the new mount on. The lips over the frame make it very difficult to put the mount in and you'll have to force the mount on by stretching the rubber in it, but a new mount is a lot more resilliant so it should go over without breaking although you'll have to force it like I did. It was the only way I could get it on without taking the entire engine out. Then just fit the insert into it and slide the other insert on the outside. Install your screw & washers now so the inserts stay put. Then fit the washer and new nut onto the long A/C bolt and finger tighten. Do the same for the two bolts holding the mount to the frame.

That's it for the driver's side at the moment. Moving on to the transmission side, here's a good shot of the frame lip I was referring to. You'll need to use the transmission bracket as the lift point for torquing the mount without engine weight on it, but you'll have to lift it after you install the mount as you have to remove the transmission bracket to get the mount installed.


Unscrew the nut holding the mount to the long bolt going to the transmission bracket. Then loosen the long bolt itself going to the bracket, but only loosen and don't remove - you won't get the mount out until you loosen the bracket. Then unscrew the two bolts holding the mount to the frame. Then unscrew the two left screws holding the transmission bracket to the bellhousing and loosen the third on the right. This will pivot the bracket down and let you slide the mount right off. No need to install the inserts and mount individually on this side. Just slide the whole thing over the bolt and then raise the bracket back up and reinstall the bolts holding the bracket to the transmission housing (torque all three to 47 lb/ft). Then torque the long bracket bolt that the mount slides over to 61 lb/ft.

Now you can use the bracket as a lift point to relieve the weight stress on the mount when installing and torquing. Install the nut on the long bracket bolt and install the two bolts that hold the mount to the frame. Tighten the nut holding the mount to the long bracket bolt to 43 lb/ft, then torque the two bolts holding the mount to the frame to 33 lb/ft. Then do the same on the driver's side. Tighten the nut holding the mount to the long A/C bracket bolt to 43 lb/ft, then tighten the bolts holding the mount to the frame to 33 lb/ft. Make sure you jack that side up slightly just like you did on the tranny side to take the weight off it when torquing.

You're done. Reinstall the fender liner and splash guard and give it a test drive.

Here's my old stuff. Glad I got new mounts - the driver's side (thin rubber) was in sad shape before I even took it off. The thicker tranny side was in better shape.